Focal Integration now in Stock

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

We have the new Focal replacement for the Access series speakers in stock.

Check 'em out.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j447/AudioVideoEmporium/September/IMAG0670.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j447/AudioVideoEmporium/September/IMAG0671.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j447/AudioVideoEmporium/September/IMAG0672.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j447/AudioVideoEmporium/September/IMAG0674.jpg

Polyglass cones, upgraded x-overs, shallower mounting depths.....FTW!

[Loudizzzzle]

I may be lookin for some Focals soon. What do they have to offer as far as 1 inch tweeters that aren't 1600 bucks HAHA!

[Florida Rep]

They have the Integration tweeters for $99 pair includes x-over.

[Loudizzzzle]

Hmmm very nice. Considering 4 sets of the VB 6.5 inch components and 4 sets of above mentioned tweeters. Undecided on what will be powering them but I'm looking at well over a grand as it is so. For now I'll have to settle on 1 set of the VB's and 2 channels of my 1000C4 LOL.

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

We don't stock just the tweeters. But we can get them for you. Pm me.

[iamamp3pimp]

Im assuming this is the entry level Focal stuff, how does it compare to the average stuff like Infiniti kappa series, or Alpine ES series?

Im considering a purchase for my wifes galant.

Thanks.

[Florida Rep]

In the Alpine training they rated the "access" / Now "Integration" ABOVE their Alpine Type R components... That's alpines words, not mine :)

Think of Focal entry level as 97% of other brands best, of the best....

[Florida Rep]

Hmmm very nice. Considering 4 sets of the VB 6.5 inch components and 4 sets of above mentioned tweeters. Undecided on what will be powering them but I'm looking at well over a grand as it is so. For now I'll have to settle on 1 set of the VB's and 2 channels of my 1000C4 LOL.

For a total of 16 tweeters? :crazy2:

For now do a single set of 165 VB components.. Then decide how much more you want..

What type of vehicle, setup, expectations you looking for?

[Loudizzzzle]

Yup 16 Tweeters. 8 Midrange. 04 Civic. 125 watts on each component set and very minimal to the 8 additional tweeters probably 25 watts each. 3 in each a pillar and 1 in the sail panel. Comps will go one in each factory location, 1 pair in the kick, and an additional pair in the rear deck. As far as expectations go I just want it to sound good, loud, and crisp. I've been looking at the MB Quart ONYX amps for power to them. Not looking for SPL or SQ trophies with my car... I just like it really loud and really clean.

[Florida Rep]

Yup 16 Tweeters. 8 Midrange. 04 Civic. 125 watts on each component set and very minimal to the 8 additional tweeters probably 25 watts each. 3 in each a pillar and 1 in the sail panel. Comps will go one in each factory location, 1 pair in the kick, and an additional pair in the rear deck. As far as expectations go I just want it to sound good, loud, and crisp. I've been looking at the MB Quart ONYX amps for power to them. Not looking for SPL or SQ trophies with my car... I just like it really loud and really clean.

Now you are crazy...:crazy2:

2dr or 4dr Civic?

If it's a 2dr: Loud, clear, amazing!

3 Pair of IC 165 coaxials for the front door.... PLEASE dampen your doors!!
1 pair of IC 165 Coaxials for the rear deck...... Again, dampen the deck!!!

Then buy ONE extra pair of tweeters & one set of Focal 4" Mid-range (from a 3-way set). fiberglass these into your A-Pillars...

With proper install, CLEAN power...it will be simply AMAZING!!

Now amplifiers.... I would recommend a single Arc Audio KS 600.2 (600wrms x 2 @2ohms) to run front door coaxials (3pr) & a KS 300.4 to run the rear speakers (coaxials) (2channels) & to run the front mid-range/tweeter combo in the A-pillars (2channels - 450hz+) . This way you have complete control over every speaker & plenty of clean zeff (zapco) power..

When you getting started??

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

Im assuming this is the entry level Focal stuff, how does it compare to the average stuff like Infiniti kappa series, or Alpine ES series?

Im considering a purchase for my wifes galant.

Thanks.

Robin,

I've heard A LOT of speakers at this price range, and these CAN NOT be beat for the money. PM me if you want to audition them.

[Loudizzzzle]

Now you are crazy...:crazy2:

2dr or 4dr Civic?

If it's a 2dr: Loud, clear, amazing!

3 Pair of IC 165 coaxials for the front door.... PLEASE dampen your doors!!
1 pair of IC 165 Coaxials for the rear deck...... Again, dampen the deck!!!

Then buy ONE extra pair of tweeters & one set of Focal 4" Mid-range (from a 3-way set). fiberglass these into your A-Pillars...

With proper install, CLEAN power...it will be simply AMAZING!!

Now amplifiers.... I would recommend a single Arc Audio KS 600.2 (600wrms x 2 @2ohms) to run front door coaxials (3pr) & a KS 300.4 to run the rear speakers (coaxials) (2channels) & to run the front mid-range/tweeter combo in the A-pillars (2channels - 450hz+) . This way you have complete control over every speaker & plenty of clean zeff (zapco) power..

When you getting started??

LOL man you aren't up on my install are ya? Every sq inch of my car is deadened. It's a 4 door. I am questioning my idea about components because Im about to be in possession if a killer 3 way active crossover and EQ. Not really needing the crossovers for filtering frequencies. I kinda like seperates better than coaxials though. The ability to position the tweeter for imaging is a thing of beauty.

[Loudizzzzle]

I like the idea of those amps too. I need to make my mind up on sub and amp scenarios. Looks like the best I'll be able to do is 2 12's in a real good box.

[CandeShop]

3 Pair of IC 165 coaxials for the front door.... PLEASE dampen your doors!!

why would you have to dampen the door if you are fiberglassing the door panel. Unless you cut the door panel to allow the motor of the midbass to sit in it you shouldn't need to deaden a door since all sound and speakers would be in the fiberglass pod.

Although that's how I do it, I consistently see people who fiberglass doors cut the rear of the door panel. Cuts down the mid-bass potential IMHO

[Florida Rep]

why would you have to dampen the door if you are fiberglassing the door panel. Unless you cut the door panel to allow the motor of the midbass to sit in it you shouldn't need to deaden a door since all sound and speakers would be in the fiberglass pod.

Although that's how I do it, I consistently see people who fiberglass doors cut the rear of the door panel. Cuts down the mid-bass potential IMHO

ANYTIME you use a Focal speaker (85% of all manufactures)... You MUST utilize the ENTIRE door for the "enclosure".

Think of it this way. 99% of Home Audio Speaker manufactures do NOT build the speakers. All they do is build the speaker enclosures, crossover networks... They spend 1000's of hours designing that enclosure for a $120 speaker that they will charge $1500 each for... It's R&D..


So point of the story. More people need to focus on building a "enclosure" for their speakers to work properly. Just like a sub.

If you use them in a sealed glass pod, sealed kick panel (without venting into frame of car) then you will drastically reduce the mid bass...It will choke, like a 15" sub in a .25cuft enclosure..

The damping of the doors helps eliminate resonating from the metal. The speaker needs a solid, platform in which to play.. Think of your sub mounted to cardboard...& now let it try to reproduce bass. It provides a good way to layer the door & form a "enclosure" cover MOST holes, but not behind speakers. You should use this material on 70% of the metal & also utilize a rear acoustical membrane behind the speaker to absorb the rear waves....another story

[Florida Rep]

LOL man you aren't up on my install are ya? Every sq inch of my car is deadened. It's a 4 door. I am questioning my idea about components because Im about to be in possession if a killer 3 way active crossover and EQ. Not really needing the crossovers for filtering frequencies. I kinda like seperates better than coaxials though. The ability to position the tweeter for imaging is a thing of beauty.

No difference in performance & sound in MOST coaxials/components...

If you use the right amp, you won't need the crossover. But if you do the Mid-range+tweet in the A-Pillar then you might use it....

If you have 5pr of speakers in a car, no such thing as "imaging" BUT using ONE mid+tweet in A-pillar the sound will come from the windshield (some of it)...

But save your money & buy mostly coaxials (GOOD ONES) & maybe a couple components...

Only thing different with a 4dr, I would use TWO coaxials per door... NO rear deck speakers... you won't need them.

[CandeShop]

If you use them in a sealed glass pod, sealed kick panel (without venting into frame of car) then you will drastically reduce the mid bass...It will choke, like a 15" sub in a .25cuft enclosure..

The damping of the doors helps eliminate resonating from the metal. The speaker needs a solid, platform in which to play.. Think of your sub mounted to cardboard...& now let it try to reproduce bass. It provides a good way to layer the door & form a "enclosure" cover MOST holes, but not behind speakers. You should use this material on 70% of the metal & also utilize a rear acoustical membrane behind the speaker to absorb the rear waves....another story

only problem with that is that a stock door (unless your car never gets wet and you've filled the holes) have drain holes for water to go through. so now you have such a large "enclosure" that also has an air leak (or very very tiny ports) thus reducing the sound quality of that speaker.

i've looked at many sq cars who utilize sealed kick panel pods but then again they don't know what they are doing right?

you say you are a rep what you rep ARC Audio only? seems to be the only product you "push" onto people on every forum you are logged into.

[Florida Rep]

only problem with that is that a stock door (unless your car never gets wet and you've filled the holes) have drain holes for water to go through. so now you have such a large "enclosure" that also has an air leak (or very very tiny ports) thus reducing the sound quality of that speaker.

i've looked at many sq cars who utilize sealed kick panel pods but then again they don't know what they are doing right?

you say you are a rep what you rep ARC Audio only? seems to be the only product you "push" onto people on every forum you are logged into.

When you damping the door do NOT cover the drain holes at the bottom!!... those small, tiny holes will not change the sound.. I can drill a 3" hole in your sub box...you'll never know :) so two 1/4" holes will do nothing....but you need a enclosure!!!!!

When a sq competitor uses kick pods, the back of the pod is channeled into the frame of the car. So it creates a larger "enclosure". Very, very tough to do correctly!!

Do this. Take a sealed kick pod, then drill a 3" hole in the back facing the carpet...then listen to the 60-150hz range before/after!! Huge difference...


I rep Arc Audio, Focal, Hushmat, Wetsounds, Mosconi, Audio System, Illusion Audio, Blackhole & Torc helmets...

I represent all dealers in the bottom half of Florida. I do not sell to consumers.

I just want to help, learn and teach people a few basics they might not know. I don't know everything and learn something all the time (thanks buzz :)

Do I think my products are the best? In most categories, yes!
Focal - A real speaker manufacture!!
Arc - world championship equipment

Both have equipment for a average joe, that's who I care about....I hate people spend money on junk..I want to help!!

[CandeShop]

I can drill a 3" hole in your sub box...you'll never know :)

Take a sealed kick pod, then drill a 3" hole in the back facing the carpet...then listen to the 60-150hz range before/after!! Huge difference...


notice how those 2 quotes contradict each other?

When a sq competitor uses kick pods, the back of the pod is channeled into the frame of the car. So it creates a larger "enclosure". Very, very tough to do correctly!!

if they open the back of the pod most times it (the sound waves) don't get past 8" beyond where they "channel" it into the body of the car. Reason being is because it's impossible to actually use dampener in the hidden spots of the car. so thus making the "enclosure" not that much larger.

[iamamp3pimp]

FloridaRep

I sure hope you stick around man, you sure seem like a real good guy to have around.

[Florida Rep]

notice how those 2 quotes contradict each other?



if they open the back of the pod most times it (the sound waves) don't get past 8" beyond where they "channel" it into the body of the car. Reason being is because it's impossible to actually use dampener in the hidden spots of the car. so thus making the "enclosure" not that much larger.


I said sub enclosure... if you put a 15" sub in a .25cuft enclosure and I drill a 3" hole (channeled into carpet or "damping" material like acoustic foam, not peal/stick) it would sound better.....the idea is its in the WRONG enclosure!! You choke the driver, it needs room to perform!!

In most sq cars they use some type of acoustical treatment behind the speaker. It could be foam, modeling clay, etc...

In your door you have several large holes. A door panel will absorb some but the speaker is mounted on tin foil. Beef this up, create a LARGE enclosure....

[Florida Rep]

FloridaRep

I sure hope you stick around man, you sure seem like a real good guy to have around.

Thanks man... im going to need some ideas on a demo car soon.
Another topic... :)

[Loudizzzzle]

FloridaRep

I sure hope you stick around man, you sure seem like a real good guy to have around.

^^^^ THIS! I appreciate your input on this topic. My doors are completely deadened... all the way inside the outside panel and also the metal that the door panel attaches to. I didnt put deadener all of the way at the bottom of the door so I should be good. Your input probably made me change my mind from 3 tweeters in the A pillar to the 4 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter. Will probably keep the 1 inch tweeter in the sail panel though.

[Florida Rep]

^^^^ THIS! I appreciate your input on this topic. My doors are completely deadened... all the way inside the outside panel and also the metal that the door panel attaches to. I didnt put deadener all of the way at the bottom of the door so I should be good. Your input probably made me change my mind from 3 tweeters in the A pillar to the 4 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter. Will probably keep the 1 inch tweeter in the sail panel though.

Tweeter in sail panel is perfect. Just try a small mid-range in the a-piller. Use that to bring your sound up high and you will get amazing vocals upfront.... I plan on doing this in my car in my next build..

Thanks for the nice comments, I've been around the block a few times.. car stereo is like cooking....100 different ways to do something and as long as you follow key steps..the end result will be good..

Everybody "taste" is different but you cannot deny good tasting food :) just like audio

[Loudizzzzle]

That's funny you say that because right now I cook as my 9-5. I agree with ya... bringing a midrange to the A pillar not just tweeters will add some nice fatness to the front stage. I may still do the components. The crossovers will be completely unnecessary so maybe Ill just sell those. I know what you're saying as far as not needing anything in the rear deck. I'll probably still do them anyways though lol. 4 sets of the VB components.... 2 sets of 1 inch tweeters and 2 4 inch midrange drivers. Sounds pretty sexy to me. I'm definitely feelin the Arc Audio stuff too. What do they make for a class D mono sub amp? Somethin real beefy to power 2 12's. Thinkin Wardens at this point.

[Florida Rep]

That's funny you say that because right now I cook as my 9-5. I agree with ya... bringing a midrange to the A pillar not just tweeters will add some nice fatness to the front stage. I may still do the components. The crossovers will be completely unnecessary so maybe Ill just sell those. I know what you're saying as far as not needing anything in the rear deck. I'll probably still do them anyways though lol. 4 sets of the VB components.... 2 sets of 1 inch tweeters and 2 4 inch midrange drivers. Sounds pretty sexy to me. I'm definitely feelin the Arc Audio stuff too. What do they make for a class D mono sub amp? Somethin real beefy to power 2 12's. Thinkin Wardens at this point.


You can consider this...
Run components upfront (use ONE pair of tweeters in the door, near speakers) & the other pair to match up with your mid-range in A-Pillar.

Components in the back are a waste. A coaxial will be better, as long as it's a good one. Like the Polyglass CVX still have crossovers, just built in :)

Rear speakers (deck) won't help much. I would use that money for better amps, speakers, wires, etc... Might add volume, but not $200 volume...

Plus the subs will beat them to death & it's really not worth the $$$

Arc audio does make a Class D 1150w 1ohm amp (XDI 1000.1), they also make a 1200w Class G/H amp (class D efficiency, Class A/B sound/internals). Here soon we will have a 2500.1 Class G/H monster (hope I don't get in trouble for telling you) that I will be using in my vehicle..