CBFryman
02-05-2009, 09:49 PM
In my truck.:grin:
pimp brought up a good point in another thread. Car "mid-bass" drivers aren't intended to play true mid-bass. The true definition of mid-bass which I found is 50-100Hz. 50-100Hz is a pesky little octave, especially in vehicles.
Much like a home theater system, I want to have a true, dedicated mid-bass.
Best of all, it will only cover 50-125Hz. However, it needs to keep up with a dedicated 0<x<50Hz subwoofer. Even one of my 15's would kill most 6.5's. I'm wanting to either seal the 2 Mags or do a smaller box with a low tune and a lot less port area. We're talking high 130's tops on the SPL, but I'll be holding down 130dB down to 20Hz. Of course, I dont need my mid-bass to be THAT loud, but loud enough that a turned down subwoofer will do just fine.
To do this, and here comes the pseudo VJ plan, I'd cut a section of the floor board out, and fiberglass the hell out of it then mount a shallow mount 8". In the door, I'd do a 6.5" and then some tweeters on the dash. The delay work will take some SERIOUS processing, but then again, this wont even fit because of the frame until I put a body lift on. Basically, years down the road.
If all goes planned with this truck, I'll never get rid of her.
So anyway, back to the stereo.
I feel that my sundown will be like old-school USamps by the time I can do this. If she keeps pumping that long, she'll keep pumping for a while longer. The same goes for my SI mags. It'll be like all the TCsounds T9 drivers are now.
If I could get an eclipse-like head unit which has GPS, high, low, mid outputs and active cross over, and L/R delay. Add to that a stand alone parametric EQ with channel delay and maybe another, external active Xover and I'd be good.
If I could do this today, this is what I would order:
Tang Band 8"
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-833
Shallow enough, lots of Xmax, loose suspension, etc...
Tang Band 6.5" Underhung driver
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-874&ctab=2#Tabs
Plenty of room in the doors, plenty flat from 125Hz-5,000Hz. Finding a tweeter to match the high end of these will be easy peasy. Impedance is between 4 and 8 for the entire frequency range.
Can you guess the tweeter?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=277-094&ctab=1#Tabs
I can get the vocals up higher and let the super expensive drivers do the most work. With the ability to really put the power to them, they will get plenty loud and I trust in the Morel name to keep the quality crystal both on and off axis. How will I mount them? well that's a hard question.
For power? Well it depends on the electrical I want to deal with. Running the sundown at 0.5ohm takes current and voltage. I'll probably need an alternator upgrade. Of course, by the time I could do this I will be needing a newly rebuilt fuel injected 5.0 tuned for around 250whp and 300lb/ft of torque. This will also require extensive sound deadening to make it worth the money on the speakers. But, this will allow me to run a much more powerful, cheaper alternator. Maybe add another yellow top in the bed.
Thus, if I can afford it (hmmmm) I'll go with tube power. If I cant, standard efficient A/B amp. Smallest footprint possible.
You may wonder of the bump in the floor this will create. No problems because with the smaller subwoofer box there will be plenty more seat room. Everything will be completely hidden from sight except the radio. Maybe by then I can afford power door locks and add a better alarm system.
So, any thoughts?
pimp brought up a good point in another thread. Car "mid-bass" drivers aren't intended to play true mid-bass. The true definition of mid-bass which I found is 50-100Hz. 50-100Hz is a pesky little octave, especially in vehicles.
Much like a home theater system, I want to have a true, dedicated mid-bass.
Best of all, it will only cover 50-125Hz. However, it needs to keep up with a dedicated 0<x<50Hz subwoofer. Even one of my 15's would kill most 6.5's. I'm wanting to either seal the 2 Mags or do a smaller box with a low tune and a lot less port area. We're talking high 130's tops on the SPL, but I'll be holding down 130dB down to 20Hz. Of course, I dont need my mid-bass to be THAT loud, but loud enough that a turned down subwoofer will do just fine.
To do this, and here comes the pseudo VJ plan, I'd cut a section of the floor board out, and fiberglass the hell out of it then mount a shallow mount 8". In the door, I'd do a 6.5" and then some tweeters on the dash. The delay work will take some SERIOUS processing, but then again, this wont even fit because of the frame until I put a body lift on. Basically, years down the road.
If all goes planned with this truck, I'll never get rid of her.
So anyway, back to the stereo.
I feel that my sundown will be like old-school USamps by the time I can do this. If she keeps pumping that long, she'll keep pumping for a while longer. The same goes for my SI mags. It'll be like all the TCsounds T9 drivers are now.
If I could get an eclipse-like head unit which has GPS, high, low, mid outputs and active cross over, and L/R delay. Add to that a stand alone parametric EQ with channel delay and maybe another, external active Xover and I'd be good.
If I could do this today, this is what I would order:
Tang Band 8"
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-833
Shallow enough, lots of Xmax, loose suspension, etc...
Tang Band 6.5" Underhung driver
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-874&ctab=2#Tabs
Plenty of room in the doors, plenty flat from 125Hz-5,000Hz. Finding a tweeter to match the high end of these will be easy peasy. Impedance is between 4 and 8 for the entire frequency range.
Can you guess the tweeter?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=277-094&ctab=1#Tabs
I can get the vocals up higher and let the super expensive drivers do the most work. With the ability to really put the power to them, they will get plenty loud and I trust in the Morel name to keep the quality crystal both on and off axis. How will I mount them? well that's a hard question.
For power? Well it depends on the electrical I want to deal with. Running the sundown at 0.5ohm takes current and voltage. I'll probably need an alternator upgrade. Of course, by the time I could do this I will be needing a newly rebuilt fuel injected 5.0 tuned for around 250whp and 300lb/ft of torque. This will also require extensive sound deadening to make it worth the money on the speakers. But, this will allow me to run a much more powerful, cheaper alternator. Maybe add another yellow top in the bed.
Thus, if I can afford it (hmmmm) I'll go with tube power. If I cant, standard efficient A/B amp. Smallest footprint possible.
You may wonder of the bump in the floor this will create. No problems because with the smaller subwoofer box there will be plenty more seat room. Everything will be completely hidden from sight except the radio. Maybe by then I can afford power door locks and add a better alarm system.
So, any thoughts?