Custom Active/Passive Componet Set

[CBFryman]

Cliff notes at the bottom.

I'm looking to dump my component set that I have in my truck currently (Old XBL^2 RE RE). I originally wanted to go strictly passive. However, when I was carousing around PE I had an idea. My idea was to have a dedicated midbass run active. Then have something else to take 500Hz + where stuff becomes really directional. I know this isn’t exactly a SQ oriented site (nor are us fl/ga boys known for our award winning SQ...we just kick *** in the lanes) but I though I'd get some opinion. I've put together the equipment I'm thinking of below. I ended up with all Tang Band stuff. It wasn’t intentional, but from the graphs I could find and the frequency ranges recommended it ended up this way.

Tang Band 6 1/2" Subwoofer
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-832&scqty=2

Tang Band 4" Sub/Mid Woofer (may as well be a mid woofer, it is flat to 2500)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-824&scqty=2

Tang Band 1" Neo Dome Tweeter
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-804&scqty=2

My plans are to cut out the plastic grille part on my doors and build it out with fleece and cat hair. The 'subwoofers' will be pretty much flat and the midwoofers will be flat with the top slightly sunk into the door. This will put them more on axis listener. For some reason I like how my tweeters sound up on the dash 'corner loaded.' So this is where I plan to mount them, first I'll try listening to the reflections off of the windshield like I am now. If it gets too harsh or I have dips in the response I will just build it out to put them with in 30* on axis (maximum recommended by TB). The Midwoofer and the Tweeter will be run passive, to start off with off of my head unit with the high pass set to 500Hz or so. The 'subwoofer' will be active low passed at 500Hz on my old USA-100 until I can get a 4 channel amp to run it all off of. The passive part will be crossed at around 2500 with a 12db/Octive slope. I have a Memphis 3 way active sitting around I could hide somewhere to cut the 500hz cross at either 12db or 18dB once I get the 4 channel amp.

Question/Cliff Notes:
I would like some opinions on this. After it's all said and done, the drivers and the components to build the passive Xover it will be about $200. I may save up and get a Sundown 4-Channel (after all, I am sponsored) or I may just hide a cheaper amp behind my enclosure. I dont listen to music loud very much, I mainly want to go 3 way so I can put more bass in front of me instead of behind me and help in the severely lacking midbass area. My constant ground pounding days are over. Dont get me wrong, I will ground pound for life. However, I'm listening less and less to today's rap (which is getting crappier by the minute) and more and more of my reggae, rock, and my Jimmy Buffet (yes, I am a parrot head). For thoes who do not know, I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 Extended cab (basically a ford ranger). I have two SI Mag 15's and 1500w + comming from a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D run at 0.5ohm nominal.


Cliff Notes?
- 3 way passive/Active
- 50-500Hz active and 500 up passive crossed at 2500Hz
- Tang Band 6 1/2" Subwoofer, TB 4" Midwoofer, TB 1" dome tweeter
- Modify doors slightly to put 4" midwoofer on axis, midbass still off axis
- Tweeters off axis listening to windshield reflections, may build up a little pod to put them on axis if need be.
- $200 for the drivers and passive Xover components. Already have an active Xover and Xover in the HU for active portion.

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

I've been very impressed with the TB's. The 6.5 sub is awesome. I recommend a sealed enclosure for it, in this application, though.

It sounds like you've taken on quite a task.

In my opinion, there are too many factors to build a custom network quickly or easily. Until you put the speaker in your car, on your headunit, with your amps, you won't know the resonant properties, discolorations, impedence rise, etc.

Then you have to decide which type of network is best for your application. Do you build a linkwitz-riley, Butterworth, or zobel network? What frequency is best for cutoff? What slope? How do you account for time alignment per frequency?

This is why I went active, and haven't looked back. Don't get me wrong, i cut my teeth building passives. But it never sounded as good as when I had the ability to change every factor on the fly. Today's modern eq/crossover/time correction units are where it's at.

Ultimately, you can benefit greatly by experimenting with speaker placement, alignment, etc. I recommend not cutting anything up yet, until you get a feel for the acoustic properties of several locations. IMO you need your midbasses in the kicks. It will define your soundstage much better than in the doors. I'm fond of reflecting the tweets off the windshield, too. So if you are happy with that location, do it. Maybe the 4's will work in the doors, if you can aim them at your listening position better (more on axis).

Good luck.

[CBFryman]

Thanks for the advice.

I really want to do kick pods. Alas, it's a stick so working around the parking brake would be a task and a half. Foot room in rangers is much to be desired. I may try to figure something out though. I'm a n00b and Xovers are not my forte by any means. Never done it before past building one for a home set up in a predefined 'kit.' I would like to go full active but I cant figure out how I would want to obtain 6 channels. Any suggestions for this?

6 channels from Sundown would kill my alt in a hurry and cost at least a hand if not forearm as well. I'm thinking Hifonics or similar decent while decently cheap A/B power. A cheap 2 channel class D could be used for the 6.5" Subwoofers if I could find one. I guess I need to keep brainstorming.