Ported enclosure

[KIAKID]

I just built an enclosure for my Diamond Audio D3 8 today and its awesome, so..... I want to try and build one for my wifes car now.

I have 2 Alpine Type R 10's and am looking building the enclosure at:

42"W x 16" H x 20" D w/4" Port which tunes it to 31Hz and making the enclosure 5.5 ^ft.

(another enclosure plan)

42"x8"x27" w/7" port 33Hz @ 3.0^ft.

This will going in the trunk of a Crown Victoria
Which is a better enclosure size???? If any........

Here are my questions....

1. Is this too big for these speakers? (Recommended 1.3^ft ported)
2. If I face the speakers upwards, can I port it out the rear?

I know I can port it out the rear, but will it sound good?

3. Can someone give me some good enclosure suggestions?
4. Whats the best tuning freq. to get as low as the type r subs will let me. i want it to rattle people down the road as much as they will allow.

I'm new to the box building world. I've built 2 so far in my life and they have both been awesome sounding, so why not try another one.

[CBFryman]

Big makes it more efficent.

[KIAKID]

So 5.5^ft would be a good choice if I'm trying to achive deep loud bass?

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

Yes, but there is a limit to how much bigger helps. For 2 tens you don't need to get bigger than that.

[KIAKID]

So the 5.5^ft is good, but no bigger? What if I build it say 4.0^ft, would this be better than the 5.5^ft or maybe 5.0^ft?

This whole ^ft thing has me boggled when it comes to tuning part.

[KIAKID]

2. If I face the speakers upwards, can I port it out the rear?

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

Tuning of an enclosure is based on the physical properties of the speakers. There are general guidelines, but no enclosure is BEST for different subs.

YOu need to spend time reading the knowledge base about boxes:

Sub calculator (http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm)

You're diving in head first and expecting us to bail you out. I've been building enclosures for 18 years. I'm still learning. Read everything you can get your hands on, and then we can discuss the fine details of what works and what doesn't.

[KIAKID]

Tuning of an enclosure is based on the physical properties of the speakers. There are general guidelines, but no enclosure is BEST for different subs.

YOu need to spend time reading the knowledge base about boxes:

Sub calculator (http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm)

You're diving in head first and expecting us to bail you out. I've been building enclosures for 18 years. I'm still learning. Read everything you can get your hands on, and then we can discuss the fine details of what works and what doesn't.

Thx, you're always a big help.

[CalusaCustomConcepts]

Anytime.

I enjoy talking about getting louder. My head is full of ideas that I'd love to share. But you need to catch up on some basics first.

[CBFryman]

So the 5.5^ft is good, but no bigger? What if I build it say 4.0^ft, would this be better than the 5.5^ft or maybe 5.0^ft?

This whole ^ft thing has me boggled when it comes to tuning part.

The ^, called a carrot, just indicates an exponet. Written properly it is 5.5ft^3. Meaning feet raised to the power of three or "cubed." Simply putting cuft (cubic feet) is the same thing.

I'm with Buzz. 4-5cuft is generally hitting the top end for most 10's, especially 10's like the ARRG depending on how much power. But bigger is always more efficent (well to an extent, once you start getting into enclosues two and three times the Vas of the driver you start loosing efficency and SPL, but you arent there so dont worry.)

I built an enclosure for a guy over in Jacksonville, a single Type R 12 2.4cuft tuned to 32Hz and he said it was loud but still peaky so larger would have been better.

The Towncar has a similar trunk to the crown vic and I had excelent results just doing subs back port back but it was suggested to me to do a CRX style box. Put the subs as far forward on the box facing up and put the port towards the back of the car down low. If you are loosing a slot port do one in the middle or the width of the box.

Let me know if you ever need help with it. :cool:

[Sonicx2c]

I have not read all this thread but 5.5 cubes is way too big for those tens or anyother ten " driver not being used for spl. I would go through the trouble of making the box tunable, chammber size and port. Tune the combo in the car, try different alignments.... meter each using a radio shack meter to measure the results. Then roll with whatever you think is best other wise go with 1.5 net air space per sub and tune the port to about 33 hz use 22 sq. inches for the port area per driver.

[KIAKID]

So if i face the subs upward, then make the port the width of the box and put it at the bottom also? Thx!

[CBFryman]

I have not read all this thread but 5.5 cubes is way too big for those tens or anyother ten " driver not being used for spl. I would go through the trouble of making the box tunable, chammber size and port. Tune the combo in the car, try different alignments.... meter each using a radio shack meter to measure the results. Then roll with whatever you think is best other wise go with 1.5 net air space per sub and tune the port to about 33 hz use 22 sq. inches for the port area per driver.

Larger usually means flatter transients and more efficent. Do they need it? No. But hell, if you have the space use it.

SPL is funny thing. Sometimes larger is better sometimes small is better. It is individual install dependant. IMO if you have the space and are willing to use it then go for it (to a certian extent). Better yet, if he wanted to move to two 12's he could cut the holes bigger and use the same box. :cool: