What would be the best way to wire into the box. Best as in the most secure, and most current flow.
A friend of mine just drilled holes and fed the wire through, then just siliconed around to seal it up. I have also heard of people driving bolts through and wiring to them. If this will work, what type/metal bolt would be best.
My last setup used actual terminals that I got from Sound Advice. I siliconed the back of them in, but not sure if they were secure enough.

All advice is appreciated.

Drilling a hole and using un-cut wire is technically the best. How much it helps in reality, though, I dont know. If you could get copper/brass or copper doped aluminum bolts to use for the terminals that would be better than galvanized or plated steel or w/e.

I agree with CB. The best way is to use a single wire from the amp to the speaker. The problem with splices or any junction in the connection is voltage and current loss. This will be a very small loss that will occurr but still a loss. Our ears are not capable of detecting this loss of sound but a sound meter will and even 1 tenth of a db can be the difference between winning and coming in second. I have used althread before and it works well just be sure to put nuts and washers on each side against the wood to hold it in place and keep a seal so there isn't any leaks. I've also used solid Og copper from the amp to the sub and it makes a noticeable difference in output also its the diameter of 8g stranded wire. The reason it works well is because the sound from the amp although riding on a DC level is still AC current and AC flows over the wire not through it. That's why its used in houses because the current flows better over 1 solid conductor than it does over strands. DC runs through the wire so the more wires the better the flow so stranded wire is best for power and ground from the battery. The main reason stranded is used for audio signals is because its flexible where solid isn't that flexible. Hope this helps

werd. Impedance is your enemy. Not resistance.

werd. Impedance is your enemy. Not resistance.

Resistance and impedance are the exact same thing just two words to discribe ohms. Impedance is said when measuring coils and resistance is said when measuring resistors. Technicaly any wire weather coiled or strait stranded or solid has resistance. Not trying to be a smart A** just wanted to let you know. And yes you are correct resistance is the enemy. The more you have the less power you get

This helps a lot, thanks for the help.

Resistance and impedance are the exact same thing just two words to discribe ohms. Impedance is said when measuring coils and resistance is said when measuring resistors. Technicaly any wire weather coiled or strait stranded or solid has resistance. Not trying to be a smart A** just wanted to let you know. And yes you are correct resistance is the enemy. The more you have the less power you get

Resistance and Impedance are not the same thing.

In fact, when dealing with ohms law there are equations for resistance and equations for impedance and they have two entirely different symbols. Resistance is R, Impedance is Z.

Resistance is generally constant, though it may rise due to heat. Impedance is entirely dependent on the conducting median and the frequency of the current that is traveling through it. Impedance is reliant on resistance, inductance, and capacitance. In the case of a speaker, the inductor moves through a magnetic field so impedance changes with stroke as inductance changes with stroke. Every time you have to terminals touching which are not soldered, you have some (though minor) capacitance.

Case in point

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/275-070_s.jpg

Dayton Silk Dome Tweeter.

Average Anecho Impedance: 8ohm
DC Resistance: 5.5ohm

Impedance/Phase Graph:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Dayton.jpg